Ganga Yatra: From the Himalayas to Bangladesh—The Sacred River’s Struggles and Survival
The Ganges, a river of immense cultural and religious significance, embarks on a transformative journey through Bangladesh, where it assumes various forms – from the Padma to the Meghna – showcasing a unique confluence of rivers and shaping the nation’s landscape and culture.
By Vidya Bhushan Rawat, After returning from Dhaka:
For millions of Indians, the Ganga begins at Gaumukh and concludes its journey at Gangasagar in the Bay of Bengal near Sundarban. Every year, thousands of pilgrims flock to Gangasagar to visit the beautiful Sagardweep on the auspicious day of Makar Sankranti in January. However, in technical terms, the Ganga’s journey is supremely fascinating—from its origins in the Uttarakhand Himalayas to its culmination in Bangladesh before flowing into the Bay of Bengal at Bhola Island. The fact is that only a minuscule volume of about 1,150 cumecs (1.5%) of the mainstream discharge flows through the Bhagirathi-Hooghly, while the majority (76,500 cumecs) flows beyond the Farakka Barrage into Bangladesh[1].
The Ganges in Bangladesh: A Unique Riverine Landscape
From Farakka onwards, the main stem of the Ganga acts as a borderline between India and Bangladesh until Lalgola in India. Beyond Godagari in Bangladesh, the river flows predominantly within Bangladesh. The Mahananda River, emerging from the hills near Darjeeling, passes through various locations to enter Panchagarh, Bangladesh, on the Siliguri border. It then re-enters Indian territory, flowing through several districts of Bihar and Bengal, before merging into the Ganga (or Padma, as it is called in Bangladesh) at Godagari. There is a misconception that the Ganga becomes the Padma upon entering Bangladesh, but this is inaccurate, as the history of the Ganges predates the creation of modern political boundaries. The cultural and mythological significance of the Ganges is profound, linking the Himalayas to the Bay of Bengal. For instance, the stream originating at Gaumukh in the Himalayas is called the Bhagirathi, and interestingly, the distributary of the Ganga at Giria in Murshidabad district, which breaks from the main stem and flows towards West Bengal, is also known as the Bhagirathi until Nabodweep in Nadia district, after which it becomes the Hooghly until it empties into Gangasagar in the Bay of Bengal.
The Ganga at Godagari: A Confluence of Rivers and Cultures
The Godagari Ferry Ghat is reminiscent of other river ghats, offering boating services to the Charland—a newly formed island created by the river’s split. Between Lalgola in India and Godagari in Bangladesh, two branches of the Ganga flow, with a Charland (mud island) formed by floods and sediment deposition in between. These Charlands are extremely fertile, supporting crops like mustard, vegetables, and sometimes paddy. The two branches converge near Godagari and continue as the Ganga towards Rajshahi, one of the cleanest and most beautiful cities in Bangladesh. The riverbank is picturesque, though there is little effort to illuminate it at night, depriving people of a view of the historic river. With some initiative from the local municipality, Rajshahi could transform its riverbanks into a magical space. Currently, makeshift shops and tea vendors line the banks, but the area becomes too dark to even see the river after sunset.
Approximately 25 kilometers from Rajshahi lies the largest Shiva Temple, built by the Puthia dynasty under the patronage of Raja Man Singh, the governor of undivided Bengal during Emperor Akbar’s reign. A visit to this temple reveals not only its beautiful architecture but also a massive Shivalinga and the serene Govinda Sarovar behind it. Just a few yards away is another temple dedicated to Radha-Krishna. The Rajbari here is extraordinary. I had the opportunity to enter the temple and witness the Shivlinga. It is commendable that these sites are under the care of the Archaeological Department of Bangladesh, though they require more protection and preservation efforts.
The Legacy of Buddhism: The Paharpur Monastery
About 100 kilometers from Rajshahi, in the Naogaon district of Bangladesh, lies the historic Paharpur Buddha Monastery, also known as Sompura Mahavihara. Built by King Dharmapala of the Pala dynasty (781–821), Rajshahi stands as a testament to the rise and decline of Buddhism in this region, which once comprised undivided Bengal, including present-day Bangladesh, Bihar, and Odisha. Visiting Paharpur’s Sompura Monastery fills one with pride, reflecting the historical role Buddhism played in enlightening India. Today, these regions not only lack quality education but are also plagued by deep-rooted prejudices and superstitions. The decline of Buddhism paved the way for forces of darkness and bigotry.
As mentioned earlier, Bangladesh has a Himalayan region in the Dinajpur district (a significant portion of which is now part of West Bengal, India). Here stands the beautiful Kantajew Temple, dedicated to Krishna and his wife Rukmini. Built by Maharaja Pran Nath between 1704 and 1722, this temple attracts regular visitors who come to offer prayers. The Kanchanjunga peak of the Himalayas is visible from this area, though unfortunately, the sky was overcast throughout the day during my visit.
The Ganga-Jamuna Sangam at Doulatdiar and the Rise of Padma
After traveling about 150 kilometers from Rajshahi, the Ganga reaches Doulatdiar, where it merges with the Jamuna River. The combined waters of these two great rivers are then known as the Padma.
Doulatdiar, a village in the Rajbari district, is where the Ganga and Jamuna converge, adopting the new name Padma (or Podda, as it is traditionally called locally). Located about 75 kilometers from Dhaka, Doulatdiar is reminiscent of Prayagraj (Allahabad), as the Jamuna carries more water than the Ganga at this confluence. It is important to understand the Jamuna in Bangladesh. Interestingly, it shares a connection with Hindu mythology. Ganga and Jamuna are sacred to Hindus worldwide. In Bangladesh, the Brahmaputra River, upon entering its territory and meeting the Teesta River at Chilmari, forms a new channel known as the Jamuna. After flowing approximately 225 kilometers, the Jamuna meets the Ganga at Goalando or Doulatdiar.
A Changing Landscape: The Impact of Modernization
Interestingly, the Ganga-Jamuna confluence at Doulatdiar is larger than that at Prayag, though there are striking similarities. At both Prayagraj and Doulatdiar, the Jamuna is the larger river. However, at Prayagraj, the Yamuna (Jamuna) merges into the Ganga and adopts her name, while at Doulatdiar, both the Ganga and Jamuna adopt a new name after their massive merger—Padma.
Before independence, the confluence of the Ganga and Jamuna was at Goalundo, a vital trade town that became part of the Eastern India Railway network in 1909, connecting Calcutta (now Kolkata) to Dhaka. Travelers would disembark at Goalundo and take a steamer to Narayanganj, followed by road transport to Dhaka. Bangladesh has always been a country that relies heavily on waterways.
The Challenges of Progress: Doulatdia and the Impact of Development
Situated about 75 kilometers from the capital, Doulatdia is linked to the Dhaka national highway via a ferry at Paturia Ferry Ghat, a 45-minute boat ride away. Today, a massive bridge over the Padma has made road transport and connectivity easier but has disrupted the thriving tourism business, hotels, and waterways in the town, leaving thousands unemployed.
Sadly, Doulatdia village is globally infamous for being the largest brothel in Bangladesh, where sex work is legal. Numerous reports highlight the plight of sex workers here. Pimps are ubiquitous, from the Paturia Ferry Ghat to the Doulatdia Ferry Ghat, with auto-rickshaw drivers offering “comfortable” services. While prostitution is legalized in Bangladesh, it is difficult to call it a “profession,” as many women here have been forced into the flesh trade.
The water at the confluence appears cleaner, but the air is thick, with layers of white haze settling during the day, especially in winter. Summers are said to be extremely hot and dry in the region. Private buses ply on both sides of the ferry ghats, connecting to various destinations, including Dhaka.
Goalundo and Doulatdia are twin towns with historical significance. The British developed a railway track between Howrah and Goalundo in 1909 to connect Calcutta and Dhaka, two of the most important cities in undivided Bengal.
The Confluence at Chandpur: Where the Padma Meets the Meghna
The Padma flows towards Chandpur, where it meets the Meghna River, which arrives from Bhairab Bazar after the old Brahmaputra River merges into it. After the Brahmaputra splits, the main river merges with the Teesta and is known as the Jamuna, while the other branch, with limited water, eventually flows into the Meghna at Bhairab Bazar.
The Meghna River originates at Markuli in the Sylhet district, where the Surma and Kushiyara rivers, originating from the Barak Valley in India, converge. The combined flow after Markuli is known as the Meghna. Markuli is a small town in the Baniachang upazila of Habiganj in the Sylhet Division.
Chandpur: The City of Three Rivers
Chandpur is one of Bangladesh’s most famous port cities, where the powerful Padma and Meghna rivers meet. This confluence of three rivers—Padma, Meghna, and Dakatiya—creates a rare phenomenon. Every year, heavy floods result in soil erosion and the formation of Charlands (temporary islands). Chandpur has witnessed the natural creation of Charlands, though they are often eroded by natural forces. James Rennell, a British surveyor, recognized the town’s importance and had it declared a subdivision in 1878. Chandpur, which became a district in 1984, is now known as the “Headquarters of Hilsa” and houses a Fisheries Research Institute.
Chandpur was part of the Tripura state under the Comilla district before 1947 but is now part of the Chittagong division. Its strategic location makes it a thriving city, linking Bangladesh to its indigenous territories. Chandpur can be considered the true “Triveni,” where three rivers merge—a rare occurrence. In Hindu mythology, many sacred places are termed “Triveni,” with the third river often being mystical. Here, however, the Triveni is clear: Dakatiya, Padma, and Meghna. The Dakatiya River divides Chandpur into two historical parts—one side features an old market, while the other has a park and Raktsthal, a memorial dedicated to the Bengali uprising against Pakistan, which led to the formation of Bangladesh. This war memorial, alongside the language protest memorial in Dhaka, commemorates the surrender of Pakistani forces under General AK Niazi to Indian General Jagjit Singh Arora in 1971. It is heartening to see this memorial honoring the Indian armed forces’ role in Bangladesh’s liberation. I hope this crucial part of history is not forgotten amid the evolving political realities in Bangladesh after the August 2024 revolution.
Chandpur is also known as the headquarters of the Hilsa fish. It is a major port from where launches (large ships) depart for various cities. Waterways are the most popular and comfortable mode of transport in Bangladesh, with ships offering modern amenities for a relaxed journey.
The tides are typically high in the morning, and the rivers’ merging point is vast. Both the Meghna and Padma carry enormous volumes of water, creating the Meghna-Padma Estuary. About seven kilometers from Chandpur’s main town is a Charland, now called Mini Cox’s Bazar, though it lacks a market. Locals and tourists visit this place for solitude, which is hard to find in crowded urban areas. Chandpur is thus an essential port in Bangladesh.
The Meghna River continues its journey from here, splitting into smaller rivers before merging into the Bay of Bengal. From Chandpur to the Bay of Bengal, the Meghna covers approximately 264 kilometers, emptying through four mouths: Tetulia, Ilisha, Hatia, and Bamni, primarily around Bhola Island.
The Historic City of Dhaka
On the outskirts of Dhaka lies Sonargaon, the original capital of this region, with historical ties to its Buddhist and Hindu past, predating the Mughal era. Many believe the city’s foundation was laid about 800 years ago by King Ballal Sen. At the Dhakeshwari Temple, considered Bangladesh’s national temple, priest Rajiv Chakravarty shared the story of Dhaka’s origin from Dhakeshwari Devi, an incarnation of Goddess Kali. In Hindu mythology, rivers are worshipped, as reflected in the following shloka:
गंगा सिंधु सरस्वती च यमुना गोदावरी नर्मदा
कावेरी सरयू महेन्द्रतनया चर्मण्यवती वेदिका।
क्षिप्रा वेत्रवती महासुरनदी ख्याता जया गण्डकी
पूर्णाः पूर्णजलैः समुद्रसहिताः कुर्वन्तु मे मंगलम् ।।
This shloka signifies that all rivers, along with the ocean, bless us with prosperity. The Ganga’s glory is beyond description, and bowing to her has been an ancient tradition.
Dhaka boasts historical monuments from the Mughal era and played a pivotal role in preserving Bengali identity during the 1971 Liberation War. Dhaka University witnessed the first uprising against the imposition of Urdu as Pakistan’s national language in 1952. When Governor General Mohammad Ali Jinnah declared Urdu the national language, students protested fiercely, forcing him to retreat. Today, historical buildings like the Lord Curzon Building (housing Dhaka University’s Physics Department) and the Language Martyrs’ Memorial near the Law Faculty are neglected, covered in dust, and ironically defaced with Arabic script.
Dhaka’s lifeline is the Buriganga River, a distributary of the Dhaleshwari, which branches off from the Jamuna. The Buriganga hosts the Sadarghat Launch Ghat, where luxurious cruises and comfortable trollers depart for cities like Barisal, Bhola, Chandpur, Rajshahi, and Chittagong. Waterways are the most accessible and comfortable transport system in Bangladesh. However, the Buriganga is severely polluted, with plastic waste, untreated sewage, and industrial effluents turning it into a river of waste. The stench is unbearable, and the air in Dhaka is equally polluted, with thick smog reminiscent of post-Diwali Delhi.
A Beautiful Journey to Bhola
The Buriganga flows into the Meghna River, which carries the combined waters of the Ganga, Jamuna, and Padma towards its final destination in the Bay of Bengal at Bhola Island. From Dhaka, the easiest way to reach Bhola is by launch—a large, comfortable ship with modern amenities. The six-hour journey takes you to Bhola, the largest island in Bangladesh, which faces threats from soil erosion and climate change. Surrounded by distributaries of the Meghna, Bhola forms an estuary with four mouths: Ilisha, Hatia, Tetulia, and Bamni. These rivers are so vast that they resemble the sea, making it hard to discern their origins or endpoints. Bangladesh, situated between violent rivers and the powerful Bay of Bengal, is highly vulnerable to rising water levels.
About 10 kilometers from Bhola’s Ilisha Ferry Ghat lies Majher Char, home to nearly 10,000 families. The only way to reach Bhola Island is by local ferry, a risky 30–45 minute ride. The boats are overcrowded with people and goods, and the journey is perilous, especially during high tides. The lack of regulation and fixed ghats exacerbates the risk. Villagers, particularly youths, shared their plight: around 200 families have lost homes and fertile land to recent soil erosion by the Meghna. They warned that without protective measures, the village might disappear by March due to rising river and sea levels. Estuaries, where rivers meet the sea, are particularly vulnerable to climate change.
I also visited the Tetulia River, another mouth of the Meghna on Bhola’s other side, where soil erosion and Charland formation are evident. Bhola to Gangasagar is part of the Sundarbans, with 60% in Bangladesh and 40% in India. This region, rich in mangroves and biodiversity, was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987.
Bhola, a district town with a population of 1.8 million, became a district in 1984 after being part of Noakhali and later Barisal. The climate here is much better than Dhaka’s, though the only access is by water.
Ganga: A World Heritage
Traveling the entire stretch of the Ganga, from its source to the Bay of Bengal, has been a memorable journey. It revealed the river’s profound impact on culture, history, and ecology across South Asia. Whether called Ganga, Padma, or Meghna, it is the holy waters of the Himalayas that give life to these rivers. The Ganga’s journey is a testament to the unity of nature and culture, linking the Himalayas to the Sundarbans. As Bhupen Hazarika’s immortal song “Vistarhaiapaar” asks:
विस्तार है आपार, प्रजा दोनों पार
करे हाहाकार निःशब्द सदा
ओ गंगा तुम, गंगा बहती हो क्यूँ?
विस्तार है आपार, प्रजा दोनों पार
करे हाहाकार निःशब्द सदा
ओ गंगा तुम, गंगा बहती हो क्यूँ?
नैतिकता नष्ट हुई, मानवता भ्रष्ट हुई
निर्लज्ज भाव से बहती हो क्यूँ ?
इतिहास की पुकार, करे हुंकार
ओ गंगा की धार, निर्बल जन को
सबल-संग्रामी, समग्रोगामी
बनाती नहीं हो क्यूँ ?
॥ विस्तार है अपार, प्रजा दोनों पार..॥
अनपढ़ जन, अक्षरहिन
अनगीन जन, खाद्यविहीन
नेत्रविहीन दिक्षमौन हो क्यूँ ?
इतिहास की पुकार, करे हुंकार
ओ गंगा की धार, निर्बल जन को
सबल-संग्रामी, समग्रोगामी
बनाती नहीं हो क्यूँ ?
॥ विस्तार है अपार, प्रजा दोनों पार..॥
व्यक्ति रहे व्यक्ति केंद्रित
सकल समाज व्यक्तित्व रहित
निष्प्राण समाज को छोड़ती न क्यूँ ?
इतिहास की पुकार, करे हुंकार
ओ गंगा की धार, निर्बल जन को
सबल-संग्रामी, समग्रोगामी
बनाती नहीं हो क्यूँ ?
॥ विस्तार है अपार, प्रजा दोनों पार..॥
रुदस्विनी क्यूँ न रहीं ?
तुम निश्चय चितन नहीं
प्राणों में प्रेरणा देती न क्यूँ ?
उनमद अवमी कुरुक्षेत्रग्रमी
गंगे जननी, नव भारत में
भीष्मरूपी सुतसमरजयी जनती नहीं हो क्यूँ ?
॥ विस्तार है अपार, प्रजा दोनों पार..॥
विस्तार है अपार, प्रजा दोनों पार
करे हाहाकार, निःशब्द सदा
ओ गंगा तुम, गंगा बहती हो क्यूँ?
ओ गंगा तुम, ओ गंगा तुम
गंगा तुम, ओ गंगा तुम
गंगा… बहती हो क्यूँ ?
-भूपेन हजारिका
The Ganga’s might and beauty are unparalleled, and it is our responsibility to protect and preserve this heritage for future generations.
[1] The Heads and Tails of Ganga by Vijay Paranjpye, Radhika Mulay, and Chaitrali Kulkarni, 2023, published by the Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage (INTACH), Link.
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